By Nicholas Boer – Published 4:46 pm, Wednesday, September 4, 2013
Quietly counting the chile peppers in my cumin lamb – “18, 19, 20” – I sensed the table of six behind me resting their chopsticks.
“Punishment yields rewards,” a woman says. The host weighs in: “No, the reward comes first.”
That reward is the robust flavor of John Yao’s Sichuan cooking. The punishment is the heat, which sneaks up on you like a feral cat.
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